Does An Ebike Controller Always Draw The Rated Amps
This forum is in read-only mode. Please proceed to browse, merely replies are disabled for now. Why?
eBike Modification - Controller and Amperage questions
Hello! I am looking to mod my eZip echo ride two bike.
I was looking at the 36v controllers on this site'due south store. Only I am really confused. Ane says it is for up to 500W motors. Only it too says: "Maximum current 25 Amps". Ohms constabulary means that at 25A with 36v, I'm running 900W. Then shouldn't that controller be chosen a "900W" controller and not a "500W" controller?
The problem is that I don't want to go over a 900w to the motor. A higher output 36v controller that is rated for "upwardly to 650 Watts motors" has maximum current of xxx Amps, which would actually hateful up to 1080 watts. This is why I'm confused.
I'thousand bold that the controllers work by decision-making the output current? Using the throttle position equally an indication of how much electric current to output? Is this correct?
I'thousand having a hard time with this too: Stock the bike is 24v, the stock controller states 25A on its sticker... Ohm'south law makes it 600W max output. The motor is "rated" at 450W. So is the bike already b4eing pushed passed the rating at stock configuration? I wouldn't think they could for liability reasons. However, If you "reverse" the math and figure 450W rated motor at 24v that is xviii.75A, not the controller's sticker stated 25A. Aside from grabbing my ammeter, how am I supposed to know what amperage my stock arrangement is supposed to be outputting?
Am I missing something? Why does the specification differ from the Law of Ohm's in every instance I've provided?
Maybe I am missing how the controller comes into play. Is the stated max output non necessarily the max output to the motor? If and then, shouldn't the max motor output current be listed every bit a separate specification detail? Is there some other gene here that I have non taken into consideration? It just doesn't add up for me. I hope maybe since yous guys are the EBIKE kings you might have some information in this regard.
As well, do yous have any suggestions on upping my system without frying the (stock 450w) motor? I'm toying with the idea of running at 36v system with a controller that will push my motor to about 800-900W max. Simply once more that is based on an assumption that with a controller I would become the stated 25 max current output to the motor.
Thanks a bunch for reading and I appreciate whatsoever assistance you lot tin can provide me.
Regards,
Shaun 8159
ESP Support
said nearly 6 years agone
The Watts rating is continuous and Amps rating is intermittent - that is why they do not chronicle to each other mathematically. A controller's maximum current rating indicates its intermittent duty rating (for accelerating from a standstill and going up brusk inclines), while its Watts rating indicates its continuous output rating capability. They build controllers that fashion and then they accept plenty ability for intermittently heavy loads such as getting up steep driveways and ramps. If you lot continuously run a controller at its maximum current rating it will probably burn down out before the motor does. The amount of current that a controller outputs depends on both the load that the motor is placing on the controller and the position of the throttle.
For a 36 Volt 450 Watt motor a controller with a maximum current rating of 25 Amps will be a adept match for it. Equally long as the motor is non running too hot then information technology should last a long time. If the cycle is being used for going upwardly long hills then you might want to stop after a while and bank check if the motor or controller is getting also hot and throttle down a footling if either one of them are to keep them from burning out.
You tin use a controller that is rated for significantly more Watts than the motor is rated for as long every bit the motor is not getting besides hot while information technology is in utilize, the extra power could be used intermittently for climbing ramps and brusque grades, but not continuously, otherwise it would most likely overheat the motor. The safest thing to practise is use a controller that is rated for the same or slightly more than Watts every bit the motor is, and to accept it like shooting fish in a barrel when going up long or steep hills.
Y'all stone, thanks for the excellent caption! That cleared it right up for me.
How would I go about making certain of controller compatibility with my other electric components? Such equally the throttle. I'yard not sure what kind of throttle my bike has. It connects to the stock controller and is simply ii wires. At the controller (which I haven't gotten to dis-assemble yet) there are besides connections for the brake stop, the TAG/PAS switch, the cadency sense, and the motor, patently. What controller options do I accept for this type of setup at 36v 25A?
EDIT: Just doubled checked and the throttle wire is a iii wire afterall. When I counted two, it was because I was looking at the battery level status LED wires. At the controller its a total of 5 wires to the throttle. iii for the throttle positioning and 2 for the LED light output.
So it looks like well-nigh 4.2 or then volts of power is supplied to the throttle wires...
What is the normal current output rating of that runway and is the iv.2 voltage regulated?
Could I steal 2A off that circuit to accuse my phone or would that prohibit the throttle from working correctly?
ESP Support
said about vi years ago
It is near universal for electrical bikes to apply hall effect throttles with a 5V DC input and 0.8V-4.2V output. I would assume that the bikes throttle has these specifications. These are the throttle specifications that all of our controllers require. We have effectually six 36 Volt controllers with 25 Amp maximum current specifications available on this folio: http://www.electricscooterparts.com/speedcontrollers36volt.html
I exercise not have any specifications for the current output rating of the throttle connector for any of our controllers. Since most hall effect sensor ICs simply require a few milliamperes of power to operate I doubt if whatever controller would put out more power than is needed to run them. I would employ a separate DC-DC converter for phone charging to avoid risking impairment to the controller.
Ok crawly, thank you once more! I actually did go ahead and get a DC-DC converter for charging my phone, so I will not have to worry about the controller with with that.
So the merely other question I had was near the "cadency sensor" input on my eZip. This is the input that controls the pedal aid (when I commencement to pedal, the motor kicks in on low power). I don't meet a connection on the controllers on your site for this input or the switch for this function. How would I be able to hook that upward? I notice the sensor has a 3 wire plug too.
Also, are the controllers over voltage protected as well? I could not fins specs for the upper cutoff, just the low voltage cutoff. Cheers again!
ESP Support
said virtually 6 years ago
The only controllers I know of that we sell for brushed motors which have a cadence sensor input are the OEM Currie (eZip and IZIP) electric wheel controllers. I can non recall that any of our universal controllers for brushed motors have cadence sensor inputs. Near of our controllers for brushless motors have cadence sensor inputs though. Whatsoever of our controllers that practise not have a cadence sensor input volition not work with cadence sensors - they can merely be controlled with a throttle.
None of our controllers take over Voltage protection. It is rare for a bombardment pack to be overcharged by its bombardment charger so over Voltage protection is not a feature that is present on any speed controllers that I know near. Virtually controllers can handle Voltage levels higher up what they are rated for then I do not think that higher Voltages are a problem for them. A lot of people over Volt Razor MX500 and MX650 electric clay bikes from 36 Volts to 48 Volts and use the original 36 Volt controller without any bug.
Sweet, y'all have been very helpful!! Thank you lot very much for the information!
ESP Back up
said almost 6 years ago
You are welcome for the information and thank you very much for your questions. If you accept any farther questions in the future please do not hesitate to ask.
A few more questions, getting ready to embark on this take chances.
What are the dimensions of the Item # SPD-36500A controller?
Other than where the wires come out, is in that location whatsoever difference betwixt that and the Item # SPD-36500B controller?
What is the departure between the $35 controllers vs the $forty ones? (Ex: SPD-36500 is $34.95 ; SPD-36500A is $39.95).
Thanks once again!
ESP Support
said almost six years agone
I just had a chance to measure the SPD-36500A controller and its dimensions are iii-7/8" x 2-seven/8" x 1-1/8". Its wires are approximately three" long.
The primary difference between the SPD-36500A and SPD-36500B controllers is that they are designed and made by different factories. They are both made by very good factories though and nosotros practise not have any quality command problems with either controller. The SPD-36500A is carefully sealed around its wires and example lid with silicone prophylactic so it is h2o resistant, while the SPD-36500B is not sealed at all and h2o can easily go inside of information technology.
The $34.95 SPD-36500 is fabricated by the same factory as the $39.95 SPD-36500A and they are both sealed and water resistant. The SPD-36500A is larger and has a larger heat sink than the SPD-36500 so information technology should exist able to handle college loads without overheating. The heat sinks of both of these controllers is on their bottom side then they tin can exist mounted to a steel or aluminum plate or beam to enhance their cooling capabilities.
The SPD-36500B uses its unabridged example as a heat sink so if it is not being attached to something that will describe oestrus away from it then it may be the better option as far as cooling goes.
Hi! Once once more thanks very much for the detailed and helpful info. Since I rode my cycle to work today, I was able to measure my "controller compartment" and I went ahead and placed my social club for the 36500A controller. Being sealed is a large advantage signal for me, as is being a bit larger and able to handle more than heat and added cooling options. Since I will (just barley) be able to make it fit, information technology was hands downwardly the one for me to order.
Cheers once more! I am certain I volition be back as I start making more modifications to my bike.
Source: https://support.electricscooterparts.com/support/discussions/topics/1000073583
Posted by: houckearon1950.blogspot.com
0 Response to "Does An Ebike Controller Always Draw The Rated Amps"
Post a Comment